tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-36128624730198661022024-03-04T20:13:22.003-08:00Flight of the Cascadian ArgonautsEarualhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05162578482227118866noreply@blogger.comBlogger34125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3612862473019866102.post-31475367137834908642013-09-23T21:07:00.000-07:002013-09-23T21:07:08.981-07:00First Fall Rain Ride 2013<span style="font-family: Trebuchet MS, sans-serif;">First good rain ride of the season! Luckily I reinstalled my fenders a few days before.</span><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhBIc6LOvtRrb2pQZOIDuAyCsgPl-JbQ18dFQd41sFOhTriizebF5LKnuqw-tgVaEHDgCKPF9yKICFNpSs-oKQ3a2TRZryU-os4_7Mchu02yC0_fqwyNKYm9m0ge2r-TSq2RUOwkJpIV-st/s1600/rainywillamette.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif; margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhBIc6LOvtRrb2pQZOIDuAyCsgPl-JbQ18dFQd41sFOhTriizebF5LKnuqw-tgVaEHDgCKPF9yKICFNpSs-oKQ3a2TRZryU-os4_7Mchu02yC0_fqwyNKYm9m0ge2r-TSq2RUOwkJpIV-st/s400/rainywillamette.jpg" width="400" /></a>Earualhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05162578482227118866noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3612862473019866102.post-64554752390319469562013-08-01T10:57:00.000-07:002014-03-28T12:42:32.879-07:00The Long Way Home (Day Thirty-one)<span style="font-family: inherit;">Morning comes slowly at the feet of giant trees. After raven's "quark quark" wake-up call, I exited the forest depths to the bright riverside and filled my canteens. Slowly making my way back to my stowed bicycle, I scrambled over and under the enormous dead wood of old growth forest. Packed up, I found pavement once again and began the twisting ride along the Clackamas river towards Estacada. After 40 miles of deep forest blankets piled against clean river, I reached the North Fork dam and made the transition into a predominantly human-built environment. Tree farms, agricultural fields, and eventually the non-motorized Springwater Corridor, I returned home to find the first blackberries just ripe.</span><br />
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Earualhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05162578482227118866noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3612862473019866102.post-47476138922900544772013-07-31T12:35:00.000-07:002014-03-28T12:42:10.055-07:00Breitenbush Hot Springs (Day Thirty)The waters were calm as we paddled our way back to the mainland. Heaving the canoe up the steep shore, we returned it to its resting place and turned our minds to our own rest. We had reservations at Breitenbush Hotsprings!<br />
Throwing our gear in our friend's truck, we had the luxury of riding the gently climbing road towards Breitenbush unfettered. Deep green forest waved softly from all sides as we skimmed past on the smooth pavement. Reaching the turn-off for Breitenbush, pavement turned to dusty gravel and our final destination couldn't come soon enough. <br />
Almost as dusty as the coated plants on either side of this road, we finally arrived, found more friends who had agreed to meet us there, and the now party of five began our tour of the many pools at Breitenbush! Warm pool, warmer pool, cold shower, hot pool, cold river, tepid pool... we strolled around and sampled all the resort had to offer. Set in forest and meadow, the developed but still natural-looking pools were idyllic. <br />
Particularly transcendent is the hot, silent pool. Soaking in the stone pool, water nearly too hot to stand, we gazed over sunny, open meadow and listened to the hush that fell over the whole scene. This area is designated as "no talking" and it was more fun than one might expect.<br />
At this point in our trip, it felt as though we were in Portland's backyard. We were practically within shouting distance of home. Afterall, what's 100 miles over familiar terrain compared to nearly two thousand over unfamiliar? I had an agenda for the rest of the trip, and it included visiting several of my favorite places. Kevin had not been infected with the peculiar deep woods spell of these unique spots, for him they were yet to be discovered. The hot springs however had done their work. Fully relaxed and drained of motivation, Kevin yielded himself to the Portland-bound passenger seat of our friend's car and made fast tracks back, arriving home that evening.<br />
But I couldn't be swayed. I had to ride this next section. (Likely long, restful naps in Bend provided the energy to give substance to my determination...)<br />
After a lift of several miles towards Portland along the Clackamas river, I situated my gear (entrusting many items and pounds to Kevin, I'd travel light for the final stretch), and watched everyone drive away. Alone, I hid my bike and riding gear in a dark section of forest, slung a small pack to my back, and started along the abandoned road. It wasn't long before I was lost in the woods. <br />
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Earualhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05162578482227118866noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3612862473019866102.post-42309919760074273562013-07-30T04:57:00.000-07:002013-07-30T23:23:39.191-07:00Piety Island (Day Twenty-nine)<p>The sky lightened to a weak blue, and we were on our way. Soon the small town of Detroit greeted us, where we found Kevin's grandparents and a delicious breakfast. Now within range of Portland, we called a friend to help us tackle the next adventure - camping by boat.</p>
<p>In a borrowed canoe packed with three adults, one giant watermelon, and a cooler full of beer, ice, and food we set out on the waters of Detroit Lake, a large man-made reservoir that is a popular recreation spot. Testing our mettle and paddling skills, we first maneuvered up the Breitenbush arm. After gaining confidence in the calm waters, we struck out for Piety Island.</p>
<p>Between us and the boat-in campsites lay one third league of motor boat churned water. Would our heavily laden craft survive? Could we turn the boat quickly enough to avoid being swamped? Luckily our path was perpendicular to most boat traffic. Our fearless captain rallied us on, we paddled ferociously, and arrived in the calm bay of the island with only a small amount of water in the bottom of the boat.</p>
<p>Watermelon crackers (melon as cracker stacked with cheese and turkey is delicious) and fire-roasted corn and potatoes highlighted the evening. We fell asleep around the cracking coals of the fire, only to be disturbed by curious deer inspecting our campsite and stumbling around in the bushes. We rest assured in the belief that mountain lions and bears don't swim. </p>
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Choosing Santiam, we wound our way upwards through the dry forest and sunlight. The forest opened as we neared the pass, the sun further heating us as we steadily gained elevation. Respite came in the form of a small, shady roadside waterfall where we dunked our heads and filled our water bottles. Soon we stopped again at an overlook with a view of Mt. Washington and Black Butte. Interpretive signage discussed the B&B Complex fires that burned the area in 2003, and also gave a neat clue as to the reason for the shapes of the visible high peaks. Mt. Washington is a stunning glaciated volcanic mountain with steep sides of bare rock, while Black Butte is a smooth cone with gradual forested slopes. Perhaps because of its highly eroded state, it might seem that Mt. Washington is the older volcano. Actually though, Black Butte is older. Further west, Mt. Washington bears the brunt of Pacific moisture, gathering glaciers that cut its sides. Protected in the rain shadow of the Cascades, Black Butte stays glacier free and retains its smooth sides. Cool!<br />
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Hardened by the passes we climbed in Idaho and Montana, we reached the top with breath to spare. Gathering speed, we dove down the western slope into dense forest. As we picked up the North Santiam highway that leads to Detroit, the forest grew denser. and darker. and deeper. and greener. Traffic was light, the pavement was smooth, the shoulder was wide, and the evening sun winked through the trees. It lit brilliant rooms of trunk and moss and fern, and it filled the rushing water of streams and tiny falls with bright confetti. Still several miles short of Detroit, we lay our heads to rest on the mossy, flower-speckled ground of a retired road and fell asleep on the wet west side.<br />
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Earualhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05162578482227118866noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3612862473019866102.post-53916145131414260642013-07-26T21:06:00.000-07:002013-07-27T18:31:08.616-07:00Bend the Beautiful (Days Twenty-six and Twenty-seven)The next two days were filled with food and relaxing. Walking and biking around Bend (pop 79,000) in the warm, sunny weather was like entering a sort of paradise. A sticker for sale demanded: "Be nice, you're in Bend" and the city lived up to it. Enjoying tempeh, kombucha, multiple self-serve frozen yogurt bars, and Deschutes brewery, we deliciously replenished ourselves. In the bends of the Deschutes river that give Bend its name, people floated on the slow-moving water. In kayaks and on paddle boards, but mostly in clumps of brightly-colored inflatable rafts they drifted along. Under the bright sunshine and set against the naturally swampy and grassy banks of the river (Bend seems to consciously promote habitat within city limits, even retaining large snags near the river), the scene was surreal.<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"> <a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiPK-9St88H0h-ZpGJOkZPXdnINoWq8QofFUZ0yenIrxY76aVKDz2DyDL4FkckZ8KP2Ycf1oePSxqUSiOIp3O3bxZPLUfC9zn3vo0czhQsRt95XC0z1gCiZxInmPDGmKiJBfTWwQYdMR9M/s1600/IMG_20130717_095922_753.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"> <img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiPK-9St88H0h-ZpGJOkZPXdnINoWq8QofFUZ0yenIrxY76aVKDz2DyDL4FkckZ8KP2Ycf1oePSxqUSiOIp3O3bxZPLUfC9zn3vo0czhQsRt95XC0z1gCiZxInmPDGmKiJBfTWwQYdMR9M/s640/IMG_20130717_095922_753.jpg"> </a> </div>Earualhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05162578482227118866noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3612862473019866102.post-84436483575085528922013-07-24T16:53:00.000-07:002013-07-24T16:53:07.020-07:00Across Oregon in One Day (Day Twenty-five) <div dir="ltr">
The day dawned bright, and we were ready to find a fast way back west. While the central Oregon forests still awaited exploration, the past (nearly) month and thousand-odd miles had left us low on energy and time. Our enquiries told us that buses ran from Ontario to Bend, but bikes would need to be boxed (each large single-use cardboard box costing $15), we'd need to stay in Ontario for the next day's early morning bus, and of course tickets wouldn't be free. So with a mountain of positive interactions involving random folk behind us, we decided to use the most extensive national public transportation system that exists - hitchhiking.</div>
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A tailwind was blowing, and with the ambitious goal of Bend in mind, we decided to begin our day with a nice warm-up ride to Cambridge. About 15 miles later, after a soaring downhill with enough tailwind to balance our own forward motion and make the air still around us, the smooth ride soon became bone-jarring. Meet the Pulverizer. This giant machine rips up pavement in preparation for resurfacing, leaving behind baseball-sized gravel and the worst wash-boarded strip of terrible you may have ever seen. Bringing all of our loose surface bike-handling skills to bear, we shook the last several miles into Cambridge. Covered in dust, we stumbled into a small coffee shop, met Davy, and had cold drinks. Once recovered, we crossed the street to a restaurant to ask about the Weiser River Trail. Like so many rails-to-trails projects, it shows up on Google maps as an enticing green line, but without information on its surfacing. If paved, these trails separated from traffic are a dream to ride. While not seeming very familiar with the trail, local folk agreed that it was not paved. With that information, our recent dusting and shaking, and the heat of the day reaching a crescendo, we decided to begin seeking motorized assistance.</div>
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Stationed just outside Cambridge, we caught a ride with record speed. Vaughn James let us put our bikes in the back of his truck, then let us know we were "smart" for catching a ride in the heat (~102F) and that we smelled like "river folk". Picking his friend up a few miles later, they were on their way to build a waterwheel. With big truck, cowboy hat, and friendly yet challenging manners, it was nice to meet these two guys before we quickly left this agricultural area of Idaho.</div>
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Dropping us off just shy of the Oregon border, we quickly rode over the Snake River and into a wide bike lane. "Welcome to Oregon, here's your bike lane!" Kevin coined and we repeated happily as we enjoyed the designated bike lanes and wide shoulders of our home state.</div>
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After threading our way through Ontario, we put ourselves on the Central Oregon Highway (20) and hoped for a ride. Several minutes later, hot and bored, we decided to ride on to Vale. One enormous fruit smoothie later, we pedaled a few miles beyond Vale and stuck our thumbs out once again. Perhaps here most traffic would be long distance, and we could get a ride into Bend. No such luck. Knowing that eventually someone would be able to give us a lift, but unwilling to stay in a spot that wasn't working, we jumped back on our bikes. Utilizing a technique developed on the way to Phoenix, we rode with our thumbs out (using the right arm of course, and keeping limbs out of traffic). </div>
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Soon a truck pulling an enormous fifth wheel RV came by. Slowing as it passed us, it then stopped a ways ahead. Unsure whether the driver was stopping for us, we slowed but continued past. Again the RV passed us, then stopped ahead. This time we stopped too. Yes, he was stopping for us, but wasn't sure where our bikes could go. Removing the front wheels and minding the large, shiny face of the RV, we worked the bikes into the bed of the truck and secured them. Jack was delivering the RV from Indiana to Medford, OR, and could take us all the way to Bend! For the next several hours, Jack and his small, fluffy dog Princess kept us entertained with stories of artifacts old (cars, coins) and older (arrowheads), and where they could be found.</div>
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Admiring the central Oregon sagebrush and juniper scenery, and not quite believing we had ridden 100 miles of this road in <a href="http://pdx2phx2012.blogspot.com/2012/12/a-cold-breakfast.html">December</a>, we pulled into Bend soon after dark. Welcomed into the home of friends we had met at <a href="http://flycascadia.blogspot.com/2013/07/ghost-springs-and-hot-towns-day-twenty.html">Sunbeam Hotsprings</a>, we soon feel asleep after a long day's travels.</div>
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Earualhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05162578482227118866noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3612862473019866102.post-42929652850130218112013-07-17T21:10:00.001-07:002013-07-19T14:26:31.796-07:00Down and Out in Idaho Country (Day Twenty-four)<p dir=ltr>After a long sleep in the home of our unexpected new friends, we bid farewell and rode into downtown McCall. Breakfast and groceries later, we began our day by heading west out of town on highway 55. </p>
<p dir=ltr>Despite our varied experiences and accumulated fatigue over the past three weeks, this next section of highway was a real thriller! Steep downhill of winding curves, the highway signs warned motorized traffic not to exceed 25 mph in many sections. Nearly keeping pace with other traffic, we (almost) literally screamed into New Meadows. </p>
<p dir=ltr>Skimming down the straight main street, touring cycles were spotted outside a cafe. Soon we had found their owners within and ordered the best malts of the trip. The middle-aged couple had come from the Hells Canyon direction, and were considering riding to McCall. We strongly recommended NOT riding into McCall from the west due to the steep, narrow, winding uphill (and stand by this recommendation, unless motorized traffic manages to be absent). After a conversation mostly about their sailboat, we were on our way.</p>
<p dir=ltr>Next we rode our bikes. And kept riding. Small hills were challenges. The slight headwind was maddening. Yes, limits were being reached... For twenty-two of the past twenty-three days we'd pounded cleat to pedal, major muscles burning untold calories. Would we ever make it back to Portland, or even to Oregon?</p>
<p dir=ltr>Searching for a shady lunch rest stop, we ended up in a wooded flat spot near the crest of a hill. Here the highway cut through National Forest, and here, due to steep hillsides and guard rails, no car could stop. Lunching and munching, Kevin heard a crunching... bear! Quickly standing, we watched as the black bear crossed the road towards us and with admirable speed scrambled up the adjacent steep, brushy hillside. Popping up over the guard rail on the opposite side of the road, she was probably accustomed to waiting for gaps in traffic, but not to finding random cycle tourists.</p>
<p dir=ltr>Cresting one more hill and leaving National Forest behind, we flew down into farm country and eventually landed in the town of Council. Sitting in a patch of thick grass graced with evening sun, and with access to the interweb once again, we informed our vague notions with cold facts. Where could we catch a bus west? Amtrak, greyhound, local line? From Ontario, Baker City? Would bikes need to be boxed? Many questions still unanswered, we fell on the more immediate issue of the lateness of the day. Could we camp along the Weiser River Trail? Should we try to catch a ride into Ontario, where morning buses depart from?</p>
<p dir=ltr>Tired and still with no clear direction, we decided to take the easy, simple route- a box (motel), but with a caveat. With the maximum price we were willing to pay set at $40, we walked into the Starlite Motel. $45 for a room we were told. Maybe our resolve was evident, because soon we were made a second offer- $40. Satisfied, we scurried into the pre-made shelter to watch the brush and grass-covered hills turn pink and windy in the twilight.</p>
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<p dir=ltr>The well worn trail skirted along the Payette leading to a high pool on a rounded escarpment. We soaked in the shallow pool admiring red, green, and black biofilm before heading towards the shower. A submerged causeway of stone led between the cliff face and a large eddy in the turquoise river. We waded through the icy waters to another sandy beach. The great rock face above us exuded red and black snot that hung down in long strands. Rivulets of geothermal water ran over the shining stone. Below, the small slope of river deposit had been organized into a few cascading pools fed by a 20 foot waterfall of steaming liquid. We alternated roasting in the waterfall and cooling off in the gentle eddy. Thoroughly relaxed we returned to our metal steeds and powered up the hill.</p>
<p dir=ltr>The Banks-Lowman road continued high above the river. Soon the forested hillside gave way to rocky cliffs and we dropped along the canyon walls. Out of the protective shade the sun's rays baked us as we rode on to Garden Valley. We found the Garden Valley Market and quickly dominated a cafe table with our mountain of food. Finally we ate the 5-serving tuna can found in Montana by way of taco buffet. We conquered a bag of cheetos and wrote. Eventually it was time to brave the heat again and finish the descent to Banks.</p>
<p dir=ltr>We were met at the crowded intersection with an exodus from the North towards Boise. Relief from the heat was close at hand in the North fork of the Salmon. The cooling refreshment spurred to try and hitch North to McCall with such heavy traffic. We positioned ourselves in a nearby gravel lot and stuck our thumbs out. Soon enough a red van approached us and we met Toni, her dog Bo, and a blind bobcat named Woody. Toni, a wildlife rehabilitation specialist, graciously drove us to McCall and insisted on dinner on the town with her husband Rich. We happily fell asleep on a spare bed in a delightful food coma.</p>
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The sun was just beginning to find its way into the shallow river canyon as we made our start. Not waiting for warmth and light to find us and melt the frost from the outside of our sleeping bags, we set out on the nearly empty and still road. A few more miles following the Salmon upstream, and we entered Stanley, a small town with the grey, jagged teeth of the Sawtooth Mts. creating a dramatic backdrop for the high-elevation valley. </p>
<p dir=ltr>We rode circles around the town- deciding which of the cafes might have the best breakfast, restocking at the small mercantile, visiting tourist info for tips on road conditions, checking the gear shop for Da Brim (Hank had this fabulous helmet-specific hat as we rode north from Jackson, MT), and a final ice cream stop before heading west out of town towards the Sawtooths.</p>
<p dir=ltr>Assured that the wind from the west would cease as we left the valley, we pedaled out with optimism. Barely stopping, we powered our mechanized vehicles more than 20 miles to the top of Banner Pass. While not completely headwind-free, trees (their abundant presence long-missed) helped break the wind. At the top we stopped for a break in the shade, swatted at a few giant biting flies, and suffered comments from speedier two-wheeled vehicles (motorcycles).</p>
<p dir=ltr>Launching from the top of the pass, we dropped quickly and then joined the Payette River in its more gradual descent. Glimpsing the turquoise liquid shining and twisting, we took the first opportunity to dunk ourselves and wash off the heat. </p>
<p dir=ltr>Continuing to Lowman, the store/cafe stop we had been talking did not appear so we continued following the Payette west. Several miles later we eyed a riverside gravel pull-out and were considering its campsite potential when suddenly a large black pick-up pulled from behind the tall hill guarding the gravel road. Spooked, I was sure I'd seen this pick-up pass us at least twice today. But after quick chat we learned that this was National Forest land, that he was hunting rocks, and that there was a campground just up the road, with hotsprings at that.</p>
<p dir=ltr>Pine Flats campground appeared as a descent to the left. Swooping and switchbacking, we pulled into the large, populated campground. One ride around the loop told us there was no vacancy. Considering our options, we walked down to the river's edge. We could stealth camp, or meet people who would share their campsite with us. We could not ride the hill back up to the road tonight, and we needed to eat dinner right now. Cooking over our tiny alcohol stove near the trailhead to the hot springs, the camp host came over to enforce fire safety and let us know that while the people in 6 had also reserved 7, it was not being used. </p>
<p dir=ltr>Dinner consumed, we went to ask if we might occupy the unused campsite. Yes, of course! They said. Oh, but that was 8... over to 6 and another affirmative, along with a campfire invitation. Necessity is the mother of invention, but perhaps also of friendship... soon we were sharing a campfire with people from a company (Coldchain) that makes energy-efficient, bullet-proof freezer doors about to raft the Payette river. Learning more about the Payette river, morel mushrooms, and south African animals than we could have dreamed, we eventually headed back to our own spot under the star-spattered sky and fell asleep.</p>
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text-align: center;"> <a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhIZfU6-WyJabIG8BaADHGPl1zuO97oJj8BwaXIGLG0wiRIV_r3yCq06xnL4Emwv_qVGAC4EZvi-b6_X9QInpdYUSV0CjCdKP3wBPyihBg4h2MHDHQ-Xrb6-Q9eLdo-YxW404m6inY6QcI/s1600/IMG_20130713_200221_638.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"> <img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhIZfU6-WyJabIG8BaADHGPl1zuO97oJj8BwaXIGLG0wiRIV_r3yCq06xnL4Emwv_qVGAC4EZvi-b6_X9QInpdYUSV0CjCdKP3wBPyihBg4h2MHDHQ-Xrb6-Q9eLdo-YxW404m6inY6QcI/s640/IMG_20130713_200221_638.jpg"> </a> </div>Earualhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05162578482227118866noreply@blogger.com5tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3612862473019866102.post-21832624450737065512013-07-14T13:58:00.001-07:002013-07-17T21:11:14.485-07:00Ghost Springs and Hot Towns (Day Twenty-one)<p dir="ltr">Cloud cover blown off in the night, it promised to be another hot day. Our conversations the previous day tipped us off to the nearby mining town of Bayhorse, a remote canyon settlement built on lead, silver, and gold. The boom town busted like many due to harsh winters, high transportation costs, and dwindling lodes. </p>
<p dir="ltr">After a short mile from the campsite we turned onto an old wood and steel bridge. A sign warns visitors they will find no potable water along the crystal clear creek running through distant tailing piles. We stashed our gear and proceeded unencumbered. A well worn gravel road pushes its way through the steep valley and dry forests. Reaching out of the foothills we catch a glimpse of the rough valley. Dramatic cliffs of granite and shale riddled with caves dominate the sky. A thin layer of the biosphere clings to the rocky slopes and holds the impossible angles where undisturbed.</p>
<p dir="ltr">Despite climbing in elevation the heat of the day mounted on the exposed gravel trail. Finally we could see the roof of a mill in the distance and knew the river of rock would end. A well preserved stone hut dug into a hill caught our attention and we momentarily escaped the heat to explore. The low head beam bore an inscription in faded charcoal barely legible, though "1886" stood out.</p>
<p dir="ltr">A few hundred more feet and we reached the sizzling asphalt of the visitors parking lot. Bayhorse proved to be more developed than we had thought. It turns out the site was "parkified" in 2005 as part of a greater effort to manage the toxic mine wastes. Visitors are restricted to fenced paths and warned to wash their hands before eating or drinking. All of the structures sport warnings of waste contamination. Thousands of tons of lead were mined and concentrated here. We had to remind ourselves of this as tempting currants hung over the railings. </p>
<p dir="ltr">A curious mixture of 19th and 20th century machinery was strewn about the site. Some buildings look to have been occupied fairly recently, creating an eerie feeling of anachronism. One particular house was especially foreboding yet beckoned with magnetic charge. This one was one of the longest continually inhabited structures in Bayhorse, built by the town physician. Walls cracked and second story held up by raw timbers, the house clearly had stories to tell. A noose hanging from the foyer rafters was enough to end the exploration.</p>
<p dir="ltr">The suffocating heat back at the tarmac was too much for us and we escaped before becoming Rip van Winkle'd in the spook zone. We flew down the rough gravel amazed at the amount of elevation gained earlier. Dropping back onto the main road we were met with the stiff headwind pouring in from the South. </p>
<p dir="ltr">Along the meandering pavement, led by the river in reverse, we continued our geology lesson. The ancient river gorge cut through decaying columnar basalt flipped and folded. Batholithic granites broken long ago now filled with wide quartz deposits. Great masses of sandstone and shale lifted from long gone seas. </p>
<p dir="ltr">The persistent headwinds and broiling thermal onslaught drained our energy. Yet in each refuge we found the citizens clued us in to hot springs along our route. Miles passed and we gained more details, crystallizing the location of the springs. As the sun fell the winds dropped off and we reached top speeds. Finally Sunbeam hot springs came into view.</p>
<p dir="ltr">Steam billowed off the geothermal water pouring out of the highway-side culvert and mingled with river water amongst boulders. The riverside hillside is covered in red biofilm. We searched for an unoccupied pool, eventually settling in next to some cool cats. As soon as we mentioned our Oregon origins Sherri and Mike asked if we would pass through Bend, our intended Cascade crossing. They graciously offered their house if we needed a break. We soaked in the steaming sulfur springs glad to have made it.</p>
<p dir="ltr">Muscles relaxed we travelled the final miles to the Mormon Bend campground, enjoyed another taco buffet, and laid our heads to rest under the twinkling Milky Way.</p>
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text-align: center;"> <a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEivfdICKukzEvvriPzQaFgAWkB5Cj7Z1SJtdv-TnJAf-uI58-dk-WUVT2-LIV-zHrQF_F-jHERw5b1gIZ4J0CbI3EpA1H1uWJvDrT1m681xsZD1VWZzqyrgopjKoLnNov1hgYxcx2nKzyYf/s1600/0712131151.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"> <img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEivfdICKukzEvvriPzQaFgAWkB5Cj7Z1SJtdv-TnJAf-uI58-dk-WUVT2-LIV-zHrQF_F-jHERw5b1gIZ4J0CbI3EpA1H1uWJvDrT1m681xsZD1VWZzqyrgopjKoLnNov1hgYxcx2nKzyYf/s640/0712131151.jpg"> </a> </div>Earualhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05162578482227118866noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3612862473019866102.post-74640454753170688632013-07-13T08:28:00.001-07:002013-07-14T13:47:34.369-07:00Wading up the Salmon (Day Twenty)<p>Exiting our unofficial campground on (most likely) BLM land lining the Salmon, we continued our journey following this river upstream. High rocky cliffs with sparse vegetation- Ponderosa and Juniper with footholds near the peaks, sagebrush spilling down the loose, gravelly sides - bordered the road. The road cut itself seemed unnatural and difficult to maintain. Creation of the road bed, a uniquely flat space in this sharply angled land, must have removed the footing of many the steep hills lining the road. Vast slides of bare soil and rock extended up the hills from the road, vegetation only stabilizing the dry, rocky soil after hundreds of vertical feet. Metal netting covered other areas to prevent rocks from hurtling onto the road, and "Watch for Rock" signs are common.</p>
<p>Within the steep-walled Salmon River valley, not only does the water flow downhill, but the wind as well. As the Salmon work their way against water current to the spawning ground they remember, we labored against air current to gain distance. </p>
<p>Many hard-won miles later, brightly colored flapping flags drew us on. Nummyz, the only Korean-esque food within at least a 200 mile radius, is housed in a hand-built, airy structure. After good food and writing our blog address on their walls reminiscent of Dazzo's in Arizona, we gritted our teeth to finish the last ten miles to Challis.</p>
<p>We rode up the main street of Challis, Kevin casting extreme doubt on Laura's hope of finding self-serve frozen yogurt. With mostly bars and saloons lining the wide, empty street, this doubt seemed well-founded. But near the top of the long hill, just before the pavement turned to gravel, sat a new, fancy building advertising itself as the Teacup Cafe. Maybe too much investment for one small town... but the frozen yogurt was delicious. Refreshed, and with instructions that Bayhorse was the last place to stay before a long campground-less stretch, we headed out.</p>
<p>After a long day fighting headwind and gradual elevation gain, we were glad to pull into Bayhorse, despite it being a feed campsite ($10/night). The whole day had been overcast (and to our relief, cool), but we wondered if it might rain in the night. Talking with the camp hosts assured us it would not. Preparing our dinner, we met several other camp residents who, interested in our journey, came over to introduce themselves. Mike was from Blackfoot, and Becky and Jerry were from, unbelievably, Fallon, NV, with which we were only familiar because of our Portland to Phoenix trip. We shared their campfire and stories of epic motorcycle trips, adobe houses and their dog Sally.</p>
<p>Snug in our down bags, sleep nearly had us, when the still air suddenly kicked into ~50 mph winds. Securing our gear and throwing a tarp over ourselves, we went back to sleep. Sometime deep in the night, awakened by full bladder, the sky had cleared revealing a brilliant milky way shining through the still air.<br></p>
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Then we were off to find the ideal blog writing headquarters within the town of Salmon. Much was accomplished at the Coffee Shop, which was actually a diner. One can only sit in a diner and drink coffee for so long, so we continued in the direction of the Sacagawea Center. Seeing signs asking a fee to be paid, we were prepared to leave, but scouted the outskirts anyway. We soon met the host who let us know that there was indeed a bicycle shop in this small town.</p>
<p>Not sure what to expect, we followed his directions to The Hub, a recently opened bike shop and bar combo. Perfect for cycle tourists, Kevin was able to find and install the new rear tire he needed while Laura drank cider, ate rosemary pizza, and continued to write while sitting in a comfy chair in an air conditioned room. With courtyard, live music, and bar stools made out of horse saddles, this was a fun place and we wish their business well. Retuned, refueled, and refreshed, we pointed our wheels south out of town with a small amount of regret as the evening string band began to play. </p>
<p>Sprinting along the edge of the flawlessly straight highway south out of town, we rushed to escape the farm fields and higher traffic volumes. Soon we joined the bank of the Salmon River once again, winding into steepening canyons of the ancient river gorge.</p>
<p>Dreaming of water colder and cleaner than the warm stuff left in our bottles, we paused at a homestead in a curious S bend. Greeted cheerfully and our bottles quickly filled with cold, delicious well water, the owner of this stretch of river, proud of his unique and beautiful land, let us know that Sacagawea and her people would fish and camp along this unusually protected stretch. During the winter, the high canyon walls and curve of the river leave it relatively protected from harsh weather. With a reminder not to go stomping in the brush with exposed ankles (rattlesnakes) we were on our way. </p>
<p>Several miles closer to Challis, we spied an inviting sandy beach on a grade lower than the highway. Ponderosa, soft sand, campfire ring already built, we heated a rock for tortillas and had an all-you-can-eat taco buffet. With an abundance of both bats and swallows on patrol, we enjoyed a night free of flying, biting insects.</p>
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The pounding of the drum circle still sounded through the forest and sagebrush meadows as we woke near dawn. Rolling over for a cool morning nap, we were finally refreshed as the drummers stopped and the sun rose higher.<br><br>Having entered the Gathering at sunset, led to our campsite in the dark, we were as good as lost in the outskirts of an unfamiliar city. Excited for the change of pace, we soon set out to learn the layout and habits of our surroundings. Pancakes and coffee from the kitchen Montana Mud got us started, soon followed by our own usual, more whole grain breakfast of Malt o Meal, raisins, and dark chocolate amazing mush.<br><br>Forest paths meandered through endless tent neighborhoods - we followed them back to the information booth and message boards, then through the Trading Circle. Having heard there was a lake to the west, we found a Forest Service trail headed that direction and soon came to the lake and icy creek feeding it.<br><br>After shared watermelon and a quick dunk in a built-up chill pool, we walked back to the metropolis through Lodgepole forest and grass/sagebrush clearings. Unlike our Nevada and Eastern OR observations, the sagebrush here had many vascular plant companions. Red paintbrush, blue lupine, succulent Sedum, yarrow, mariposa lilies, a grass-look-alike with flowers that were definitely not grass flowers, and many unknowns gave cover to the rocky soil below the taller sagebrush.<br><br>Nearing the populated forest once again, we took a slightly different angle of approach and found ourselves quickly in unfamiliar surroundings. More kitchens, structures, tepees, and an undulating, smoothly worn dirt path as wide as a city street added to the complexity of our growing mental map. Back to known territory and eventually camp after a dead-reckoning shortcut through an open stand of young trees, we prepared to cook the can of tiny shrimp found roadside several days past. But before we began, our campmates returned and let us know that Evening Circle was beginning.<br>
<br>Enticed by the promise of vegan curry, we made the trek to Main Meadow. Finding a small gap in the vast, concentric rings of seated people, we settled in and pulled out our personal eating gear. Many passes of large pots later, their contents of mashed potatoes, bean sprouts, rice, bean soup, pasta, tomato sauce, quinoa, and garbanzo bean curry ladled out by cheery volunteers, we laid back in the sunny grass, exceptionally well-fed. Our bodies tuned to make quick use of these nutrients, the food coma didn't last long.</div><div dir="ltr"><br>After determining that another man-on-a-bike had ridden just from the parking lot, we fell into conversation with a cycle touring Belgian couple we had met earlier. They also had ridden the 8 miles of gravel into the Gathering site, with much more gear and a small child in tow. Impressive!</div><div dir="ltr"><br>After an evening camp fire shared with neighbors, we dragged our sleeping gear further from the ruckus and fell asleep to distant drumming once again.<br><br></div>
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Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00738012834973676656noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3612862473019866102.post-60651059189124063122013-07-10T10:55:00.001-07:002013-07-10T14:59:09.312-07:00Beaverhead Deerlodge National Forest - Ecological observations west of Jackson, MT<p>Having crossed the Continental Divide and then worked our way out to a section of National Forest in the Montana foothills of the Bitteroot Mountains, I was eager to explore this unknown land rife with foreign plant combinations. </p>
<p>The first surprise was how often and suddenly the trees gave way to sagebrush meadows. Possibly moisture availability makes the sharp delineations between stands of Lodgepole pine mostly higher on the hills and the expanses of sagebrush meadow that tend to fill the lower dips in terrain. Sagebrush, a fragrant woody shrub that solely covers enormous expanses of dry land in western America, was here accompanied by many smaller vascular plants offering color with their blooms. </p>
<p>High on the rounded hills, the Lodgepole once again dropped off, giving way to fields of lupine and - big Surprise! - individuals of Pseudotsuga, while not rivaling our west-of-the-Cascades giants, larger than any of the Lodgepole pine trees and obviously ancient with their deeply riveted orange-brown bark, large dead branches, and majestic form. Is this the same Pseudotsuga menzesii, Douglas-fir, that is our constant companion in the Northwest? With mouse-tail cones, the signature bark pattern, and similar foliage, it might seem so. The more smoothly conical growth form may be caused just by environment, or this may be a more genetically distant Pseudotsuga...</p>
<p>The strangeness of finding this familiar face so far from home climate was furthered by the habits of its young. Back down the slopes, beneath the slim and numerous Lodgepole trunks with their flaky bark, the same Pseudotsuga formed an understory. In the temperate rainforests of Cascadia, Douglas-fir does not reproduce in the shade of other trees, but is overtaken by later successional species. Here, along with an occasional spruce, Pseudotsuga forms the next generation.</p>
<p>It must be the dryness of this environment that makes the species composition on some patches of ground look something like the edges of old Forest Service roads in wetter climes. Folious lichens like dinner plates, Cladonia, bits of Sedum, and sparse grasses along with tree litter try their best to keep the soil covered.</p>
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text-align: center;"> <a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjC_iyH_q-AXZRIlfhhef4cMgyBs9m2iDcW81XsJ_rsLwx_61kpe0Uq6TvYrXUAjhAVASBh7dnLVF8AgBVmb5SF-H4iGNj48p-zKyQHdDAZzrv1qgoYz8mQE1-_6M4KZGU12wJHhR3lgJnG/s1600/0707131552.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"> <img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjC_iyH_q-AXZRIlfhhef4cMgyBs9m2iDcW81XsJ_rsLwx_61kpe0Uq6TvYrXUAjhAVASBh7dnLVF8AgBVmb5SF-H4iGNj48p-zKyQHdDAZzrv1qgoYz8mQE1-_6M4KZGU12wJHhR3lgJnG/s640/0707131552.jpg"> </a> </div>Earualhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05162578482227118866noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3612862473019866102.post-71692114836917787202013-07-10T08:34:00.001-07:002013-07-10T10:50:17.740-07:00On the Edge of Cascadia (Day Fourteen)<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br>Descending from the forested campground, we went for a quick, refreshing, and warm (comparatively) swim. Back on the main highway, we continued south out of the <br>Missoula valley towards Lost Trail Pass and the Continental Divide. But only a few miles passed before we came upon the small town of Darby, another historic ranger station, and the gazebo that would be our home for the next few hours. With picnic tables and electrical outlets, it was a great place to make tuna sandwiches and catch up on blog posts from the many days without phone service along the Lochsa River. <br><br>Just as we were finally ready to shove off and head out again, dark clouds rushed in from the south and the now brisk wind shifted 180 degrees (turning tail wind to head wind). A quick look at radar let us know that the edge of a heavy rainstorm to the south was only sideswiping our current location, and would soon be out of range to the east. With this information, we struck out. The next few miles held windy gusts and sporadic large rain drops, but the sky soon cleared and we were back with only the sun, our constant companion and challenger. <br><br>A snack stop near friendly horses and mules gave us the fuel to begin the ascent to <br>Lost Trail Pass - a grueling 7 miles and 4000 feet of elevation gain, thereabouts. Late afternoon, Lost Trail Hot Springs came within range as a steep gravel path down to the right. Curious and tired, we made the descent. <br><br>A tremendously tall wooden person greeted us before we rode through the assemblage of various wooden buildings. Unimpressed by the hot-springs-fed swimming pool and slightly spooked by the Deliverance-esque atmosphere, we climbed back to the highway and continued churning towards the pass. <br><br>Sun sinking lower, still three miles from the crest, Kevin heard a brook calling from a bend in the road. Low on water, we dropped our bikes and worked down the steep, thickly forested roadside to a cold, clear stream. <br>Dark under the doghair thicket, the forest floor was mostly bare save for baneberry, some unknown herb with deeply serrate edges, mitrewort, and one flower wintergreen growing lush and bright along the water's edge. Rosettes of rattlesnake plantain scattered themselves over the deep litter in the darkest places. Letharia, a dry side lichen, grew alongside more familiar Hypogymnias.<br><br>Finding the deep woods enchanting but too spooky to spend the night, we found a perch on a long pile of sand and rocks, likely left from highway construction.<br><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiN0u6V5TezGRYgmdESkIJ44gvIlQ1fDsqbYwriEMmSV1bjDGIIGgH0KQSATx7f_5kKoJYimznks3JprvcAi3qP-MPDU_vF54rFqW64CFTRAmmYY-jjjUNEBSFtPhrVXs2bLOi1irODcw8/s1600/IMG_20130705_100132_616.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiN0u6V5TezGRYgmdESkIJ44gvIlQ1fDsqbYwriEMmSV1bjDGIIGgH0KQSATx7f_5kKoJYimznks3JprvcAi3qP-MPDU_vF54rFqW64CFTRAmmYY-jjjUNEBSFtPhrVXs2bLOi1irODcw8/s640/IMG_20130705_100132_616.jpg"></a><br></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"> <a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgoeqNWTGR60XH3JqeUxf0eniRvR2K62rdK-Uo6PnF-KHEWTAAPj4a4wGAuA_yY7sdBsg1uM7ilw8qI2bBlqWMuxVGj9t8v5w7Li93KAWkhlt-IvxnRXrnoM-f3wOnqg9wDvaA6fj1h-uI/s1600/IMG_20130705_101723_464.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; 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Again drums persisted until the sun stood well above the hills. We rolled out of our nook back to base camp. The forest was beginning to clear out even more as the festivities subsided. A new air had fallen over the valley. Tired and tried people packed up and shuffled towards the end of the valley. Camps dismantled and scattered. Trash piles mounted and were slowly taken to the distant mouth of the valley.</div>
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We grabbed our food bag and headed out of the oppressive atmosphere for a quiet breakfast. Upon a tall hill, reflecting on the experience we decided we had had enough. Bikes packed we joined the exodus; reminiscent of refugees escaping disaster.</div>
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The post-apocalyptic scene was completed as we reached the end of the long valley. Trash peaks dismantled and sorted. A foul burn pile emitted the stench of burning plastic and synthetic fabric. The stranded lined the road, hoping for a lifeline out of the chaos. </div>
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We faced the dreaded gravel though luckily a kindly pickup driver gave us a lift for the majority. Back on the smooth asphalt we were grateful to have two-wheeled freedom. Jackson Hot Springs caught our attention not long after. One Cobb salad later and a brief conversation with some other cycle tourists we headed out.</div>
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After roughly two days without riding we cut through the stiff headwind. Soon enough we came upon the two bikers we had just met and constructed a four person draft column. Hank and Terry had already completed two passes that morning in the dreadwind and were happy to have us help pull them into Wisdom, MT. We exchanged some photos and parted ways. Back across the strange grass and sagebrush landscape we left Big Hole behind.</div>
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The sinking sun grew larger as we rolled into the May Creek Campground. There we quickly met Nancy, another cyclist. She is riding the Lewis and Clark trail in reverse - check out her <a href="http://ride4restoration.blogspot.com/" target="_blank">blog</a>! We talked into twilight and finally ate the <a href="http://flycascadia.blogspot.com/2013/07/across-idaho-in-four-days-lolo-pass.html" target="_blank">roadside score</a> of tiny shrimp. The temperature dropped as rapidly as it had risen. We settled into our bags with a mere 9 miles before crossing the Continental Divide back into Cascadia.</div>
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Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00738012834973676656noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3612862473019866102.post-71899559302841724152013-07-09T21:18:00.001-07:002013-07-10T17:10:41.785-07:00Return to Cascadia (Day Eighteen)<p>The dawn broke and the mosquitoes returned for their blood tax. The coming pass seemed less intimidating knowing that we only had a couple thousand feet to climb from this side. We chatted with Nancy again while preparing a pot of power gruel. Parting ways we continued over the flat and tightening valley floor between wooded hills. </p>
<p>Soon the grade steepened and we took a page from Michael and Jack: stopping at each mile marker for a quick break. The pass was over in no time. We had forgot that the descent was a mere 2.5 miles.</p>
<p>Over the Continental Divide and we were back in Cascadia. Again we stopped in at the Lost Trail Pass visitors center to see Chris. This time we dropped into the Idaho side of the Bitterroots onto the Salmon River. Countless miles of winding, forested descent greeted us with little traffic. It was our two-wheeled kingdom.</p>
<p>We hit the lower elevations and the forested slopes gave way to sagebrush and imposing rocky cliffs. Temperatures sky rocketed as we hit a new layer of air coming out of the lowlands. Two dollar delicious cones in North Fork were taken in before continuing our ride, now slightly gaining elevation as we began to follow the Salmon River upstream. Willow trees in the Red Rocks area, famous for Bighorn sheep, soon presented a needed shady retreat from the midday heat. The Salmon River looked turbid (due to an upstream disturbance, we learned later) but still offered cool respite.</p>
<p>We pushed the last twenty miles into the town of Salmon, quickly checked into the nearest motel, and cranked the AC.</p>
<p>*Sorry no pictures, both phones were <u>dead</u></p>
Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00738012834973676656noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3612862473019866102.post-54043157196950479742013-07-06T17:26:00.001-07:002013-07-10T12:43:37.836-07:00Big Sky, Big Hole (Day Fifteen)<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">From out secret base camp along the Lost Trail we packed up and prepared for the remaining 3 miles and thousand feet. After a few stops along the winding alpine path we had reached the Lost Trail Pass. A rustic visitors center drew our attention. There was another bike parked in front! Soon we met Chris, the host. We rested, exchanged info, and prepared for our final ascent to the Continental Divide at Chief Joseph Pass (~7200 ft.) </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">A quick mile later we lunched on the Divide and flew down the forested road into the Big Hole Valley. Bubbling brook turned to roaring river, tight packed slopes flattened to riparian swale. The river valley exploded into a wide plain and the sky expanded exponentially. Surrounded by mountains on all sides the Big Hole's floor contained a curious mix of sagebrush, grasses, and wildflowers.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br>Shade and air conditioning drew us to the Big Hole National Battlefield center. Cooled and pleased by a more compassionate, balanced treatment of the tragic events than expected we continued on to Wisdom, MT. On the way we caught up to Michael and Jack whom we had met on The Lochsa days before. The brutal heat forced us into a local tavern for some delicious veggie and anchovy pizza before resupplying. People trickled in from the Rainbow Gathering to restock, we knew we were close. 18 miles of asphalt and 8 or so of gravel lie ahead.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">The final push started out well enough but soon turned as a previous patch on Kevin's back tire failed due to weight and the boiling pavement. As soon as we slowed They came. They surrounded us in lancing swarms. Mosquitoes! Monsterous, hairy, unrelenting beasts flooded the air. Struck down, ten more rose to fill the space. Under impetus the flat was fixed and we escaped the swarms at a brisk pace. The unforgiving road took its toll as we ran low on water and drive. The last 5 miles seemed to stretch on.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">Parched and pooped we rolled into the Jackson Hot Springs Resort to guzzle iced tea and cooled geothermal water. Rewatered the trek continued to our turn-off towards the Gathering. Hundreds of cars had beaten the rough gravel into submission yet it fought back as fist-sized rocks exploded from their dirt prison under the rubber assault. From good to bad to ugly the road threaded its way through low hills and pasture. Great billowing dust clouds rose from the exodus and influx of motor vehicles. Soon the road took its revenge on Kevin's thin road wheels, a pinch flat. Tires swapped and tubes patches the journey continued.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">Tents and cars appeared, the grueling gravel was near its end. We crossed over a small bridge and swooped into the outskirts of the massive encampment. Not long after arriving a voice called out to us from a backcountry kitchen, "You guys must be hungry from the ride, Welcome Home!" Our strength was bolstered by a hearty meal of beans, rice and cabbage stew. The sun sunk low and we left the gravel road, pushing our bikes along a worn path to the crest of a hill. We were met by a stunning sunset and a view of the valley below.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">Smoke hung low over the sagebrush depression and people milled about between the Main Circle and various camps distributed across the vast valley expanse. Drums echoed and voices carried. The path took us to a foot traffic highway along the floor to the grand <br>Rainbow arch. Crowds grew and we pushed further into the growing darkness, fires flickerd through the trees. Not far along the wooded path we were greeted by Tori and Chris, fellow cycle tourists from Washington. Tori eagerly led us to their modest encampment. A nearby fire and acoustic guitar drew us in before we grew too tired. Amidst the ecstatic chanting and rising beats of the drum circle echoing in the distance we laid our heads to rest.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiLZ7uqAHz-HLCutqJcTLPYIaJrN4VR30WwUBxXIEOVJNPnLi8bRdnZcSeBfetoMnbtEHJGPh9n1fHlOy9RlteSyX4fJdAhBbpxZE4GeLvmmVrn_OxUC-Q6nKE6y9Sz9mUCYLWxLT-navo/s1600/IMG_20130706_102405_614.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiLZ7uqAHz-HLCutqJcTLPYIaJrN4VR30WwUBxXIEOVJNPnLi8bRdnZcSeBfetoMnbtEHJGPh9n1fHlOy9RlteSyX4fJdAhBbpxZE4GeLvmmVrn_OxUC-Q6nKE6y9Sz9mUCYLWxLT-navo/s640/IMG_20130706_102405_614.jpg"> </a> </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"> <a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEio9gYzlFH7pD8umUblz3pXHGeq5zdWxIO65nGUoI6VqbX1ct9OoQ6CtA6678rmW0sTYgk6YuOI82sZHbHvk-7EgMPQrMzfSeQ6nfA9bvn90HgS-OKHLVzyTiGx3FeqogwKorPwqeBcalE/s1600/IMG_20130706_105229_579.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; 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(Day Thirteen)<p dir=ltr>We arose early, said our goodbyes, and rode out of Missoula hoping to take advantage of the morning cloud cover. Just outside city limits Kevin's rear tire lost a battle with a staple and we pulled off to repair. </p>
<p dir=ltr>Trekking back into Lolo we discovered the glorious bike path that we would follow for nearly 40 miles south. Paralleling the main road, it added hills and curves the ironed highway didn't have. While car traffic still ambushed our senses, the path gave us distance from it that made the journey seem shorter and more enjoyable.</p>
<p dir=ltr>Then Kevin spotted a familiar portrait of a viking, indicating we were passing the Hidden Legend winery. Open even on the fourth, we went in to enjoy samples of the mead made with knapweed honey. Legendary!</p>
<p dir=ltr>Billboards for the Super 1 Foods Store enticed us in to a buying bonanza in Hamilton. Hungry, excited by the high quality and low prices (like the child of a Whole Foods and a Winco), and with only a few miles to our evening camp, we loaded up. </p>
<p dir=ltr>Mostly quiet Como Lake was a good backdrop for deep sleep after corn roasted on the fire an delicious local Wildwood brewery beer.</p>
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We found long-sleeved, light-colored shirts (sun protection) at Goodwill and mailed back extraneous gear; we had lunch with a friend and ate ice cream. We attempted to visit the Adventure Cycling headquarters but were minutes too late - guess we'll be sticking with our own improvised routes.</p>
<p dir=ltr>Back with the Millers, we shared our gear and stories with the rapt children. After enjoying dinner with them once again, we bedded down on the giant trampoline.<br>
</p>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"> <a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh0q2DI2z8XzZj36rJuSLtGN_A6M8ooW920vgMUtl5etaXfsntU4GMpkAskepQm_9JlF1lhuGigYJFLz-hY_Ekf-PwVLXPYL2FTxz7QeM2WDzQgDI51hEcM5sU8HoIiArduXq87qjsIOw0/s1600/IMG_20130703_202105_995.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"> <img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh0q2DI2z8XzZj36rJuSLtGN_A6M8ooW920vgMUtl5etaXfsntU4GMpkAskepQm_9JlF1lhuGigYJFLz-hY_Ekf-PwVLXPYL2FTxz7QeM2WDzQgDI51hEcM5sU8HoIiArduXq87qjsIOw0/s640/IMG_20130703_202105_995.jpg"> </a> </div>Earualhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05162578482227118866noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3612862473019866102.post-28194639805059076172013-07-04T12:14:00.000-07:002014-03-28T12:17:42.073-07:00Across Idaho in Four Days: Lolo Pass (Day Eleven)<div dir="ltr">
Idaho Day Four: The Lochsa Lodge to Missoula, MT</div>
<div dir="ltr">
Not sure where our next meal would come from, we decided to make it a good one and headed back to The Lochsa Lodge. Two lumberjack Benedicts later we were out to tackle the last 12 miles of the pass. We had been warned of the steepness ahead but found the rumours unfounded. Low traffic allowed us many stops for bug pictures while leaving the river and winding out of the watershed. </div>
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Finally the mountains broke and we headed to the Lolo Pass visitors center. Sipping free coffee, learning about the geology, and revisiting historical events; recovery set in. Suddenly three more cycle tourists pulled in and we dominated the entrance; a grumpy ranger came out instructing us to move. There we met Thane, Bobby, and their briefly observed companion. It was a quick information exchange before we began the hot descent into Lolo.</div>
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Sparse Ponderosa and the high whine of cicadas told us we had crossed to the dry side of the Bitterroots. Stopping briefly, Laura met a horse at Lolo hot springs. Continuing on, the drop turned to a mellow grade with temperatures rising. With little water and no shade we swooped into Lolo. The hellish expanse of boiling pavement and acrid exhaust drove us into the nearest casino.</div>
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Nevada déjà vu. We recuperated and prepared for the last 8 miles into Missoula with ice cream and French fries. We braved the scorching highway interrupted only by a box of canned food, pilfering supplies from the abandoned cache.</div>
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Rolling into the Miller's garden oasis slightly heat stroked, we quickly recovered in the shade and breeze. Ultimate refreshment awaited us at the Clark Fork river - we joined the Miller family bike caravan and followed Missoula trails to the natural water playground. The evening was topped with delicious antelope tacos.</div>
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Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00738012834973676656noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3612862473019866102.post-30114332133019210162013-07-03T20:36:00.001-07:002013-07-05T14:22:23.812-07:00Across Idaho in Four Days: Up The Lochsa (Day Nine)<div dir="ltr">
Idaho Day Two: Kamiah to Milepost 108 on the Lochsa.</div>
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Swallows and sunrise nudged us from our slumber. We were off to Kooskia for resupply and breakfast feast. Ample country gravy would sustain us for the coming miles. With supplies loaded and satisfied we had all we needed from civilization it was off into the wild green yonder. </div>
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The sun rose high in the sky, baking us against the asphalt frying pan. We did not find the cooling solace we had expected. The road and river peeled back the protective canopy, rays scorching our hides. Pushing up the lowest reaches of the Lochsa we found the river's banks packed with young cherry trees. Stopped under a choice tree, Laura decided to make a quick seatpost height adjustment. Overzealous bolt tightening was followed by a POP. The bolt, likely as old as the 1980's frame, just couldn't take it.</div>
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Panic seemed appropriate, but somehow a feeling of calm pervaded the scene. First we ate the cherries and tried a quick fix by wrapping the stripped threads in electrical tape. No luck. We took stock of our options and pushed the bikes up the long, scorching gravel driveway of the Reflections Inn. Somewhere nearby there had to be a bolt that would work, and this was the closest place to look.</div>
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Jim greeted us with cold well water and hope. Checking several places, he returned with hardware. The bolt, nut, and two washers held the seatpost at the right height, and we had our solution. He dropped a few more pearls of wisdom, including that the Lochsa valley is a recovery zone for agricultural bees.</div>
<div dir="ltr">
Pausing by a popular swimming spot on the Lochsa, we had a complete bee experience. Jim had told us he doesn't wear yellow, and our yellow bags and chartreuse clothing did seem to hold a special attraction for the enthusiastic insects. Nearly falling over themselves, they licked our skin.</div>
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<p dir=ltr>The stifling heat came on the heels of the morning, but luckily we had a rushing river to cool us every 10 or so miles. Traffic was light on the gradual climb into the heart of The Lochsa. In need of water we stopped at one of the many tributary streams and collected crisp, icy blue gold. Local insects thought this a good idea as well and exploded into a cloud of bees and butterflies as we disturbed them. They gently settled on us to harvest our salt.</p>
<p dir=ltr>The sweltering heat reached its peak and we rested under the shade at the river's edge. There we meet our first fellow cyclists going the same direction. Michael and Jack, from the UK, had started from Astoria, OR on their Transamerica tour; greeting us on day 15. Leaving the shade only to dunk ourselves, we waited out the midday heat peak.</p>
<p dir=ltr>Two too many "Travel Supremes," an unfortunate behemoth of moving square footage, idling at the popular pullout shook us from the heat stupor and hurried us up the road. Soon we came upon the Lochsa Historic Ranger Station hosted by Frank Fowler, a retired smokejumper. We knew we were at the right place when he directed us to put our heads under a cool spigot. Intending to make it a short stay we wandered the grounds briefly but soon found Frank's stories of grouse, grounded telephones to fire lookouts, backcountry mule trains, and of course smokejumping too enticing.</p>
<p dir=ltr>With supplies running a bit low, temperatures subsiding, and road-shade growing, we pushed the last 40 miles to The Lochsa Lodge. A beautiful, welcoming, and warm log structure greeted us. There we feasted and met a few local scientists with whom we chatted about plants and stream sediment. </p>
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<p>Bird chatter and song permeated the mist of drowsiness as we awoke and prepared a quick breakfast before meandering back up the cycle path, along the levee, and into historic downtown Lewiston. We found the Blue Lantern coffee shop, which appeared to occupy an old bank building complete with heavy iron safe, tall grand ceilings, creamy marble stairs, flowing brass rails, and sun streaming through ten foot plate glass windows. Happy old building smell mingled with fresh baked cookie and dark java scents.</p>
<p>Coffee enjoyed, phones charged, and a grocery stop later, we pointed our wheels back over the Snake River and towards highway 12 as the day warmed. Following a cycle path paralleling the highway for several miles east, we soon needed a break from the sun and found shelter under a few small trees between the path and the river. After lunch and letting solar noon pass in the shade of black locust, the heat ride continued. </p>
<p>Miles later, we needed more than just shade. Just after the highway crossed the river, we laid our bikes down and climbed the short bank to the rushing cool waters. Screams, hysterical laughter, with a side of fun... Later we learned this water was so cold because it was being released from a dam upstream. Refreshed, we continued on to Orofino and Kamiah. In Kamiah near sunset we queried local people as to an acceptable place to camp nearby, and learned that we could stay in the city park.</p>
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