Across Idaho in Four Days: Lolo Pass (Day Eleven)

Idaho Day Four: The Lochsa Lodge to Missoula, MT

Not sure where our next meal would come from, we decided to make it a good one and headed back to The Lochsa Lodge. Two lumberjack Benedicts later we were out to tackle the last 12 miles of the pass. We had been warned of the steepness ahead but found the rumours unfounded. Low traffic allowed us many stops for bug pictures while leaving the river and winding out of the watershed. 

Finally the mountains broke and we headed to the Lolo Pass visitors center. Sipping free coffee, learning about the geology, and revisiting historical events; recovery set in. Suddenly three more cycle tourists pulled in and we dominated the entrance; a grumpy ranger came out instructing us to move. There we met Thane, Bobby, and their briefly observed companion. It was a quick information exchange before we began the hot descent into Lolo.

Sparse Ponderosa and the high whine of cicadas told us we had crossed to the dry side of the Bitterroots. Stopping briefly, Laura met a horse at Lolo hot springs. Continuing on, the drop turned to a mellow grade with temperatures rising. With little water and no shade we swooped into Lolo. The hellish expanse of boiling pavement and acrid exhaust drove us into the nearest casino.

Nevada déjà vu. We recuperated and prepared for the last 8 miles into Missoula with ice cream and French fries. We braved the scorching highway interrupted only by a box of canned food, pilfering supplies from the abandoned cache.

Rolling into the Miller's garden oasis slightly heat stroked, we quickly recovered in the shade and breeze. Ultimate refreshment awaited us  at the Clark Fork river - we joined the Miller family bike caravan and followed Missoula trails to the natural water playground. The evening was topped with delicious antelope tacos.

Across Idaho in Four Days: Up The Lochsa (Day Nine)

Idaho Day Two: Kamiah to Milepost 108 on the Lochsa.

Swallows and sunrise nudged us from our slumber. We were off to Kooskia for resupply and breakfast feast. Ample country gravy would sustain us for the coming miles. With supplies loaded and satisfied we had all we needed from civilization it was off into the wild green yonder.

The sun rose high in the sky, baking us against the asphalt frying pan. We did not find the cooling solace we had expected. The road and river peeled back the protective canopy, rays scorching our hides. Pushing up the lowest reaches of the Lochsa we found the river's banks packed with young cherry trees. Stopped under a choice tree, Laura decided to make a quick seatpost height adjustment. Overzealous bolt tightening was followed by a POP. The bolt, likely as old as the 1980's frame, just couldn't take it.

Panic seemed appropriate, but somehow a feeling of calm pervaded the scene. First we ate the cherries and tried a quick fix by wrapping the stripped threads in electrical tape. No luck. We took stock of our options and pushed the bikes up the long, scorching gravel driveway of the Reflections Inn. Somewhere nearby there had to be a bolt that would work, and this was the closest place to look.

Jim greeted us with cold well water and hope. Checking several places, he returned with hardware. The bolt, nut, and two washers held the seatpost at the right height, and we had our solution. He dropped a few more pearls of wisdom, including that the Lochsa valley is a recovery zone for agricultural bees.

Pausing by a popular swimming spot on the Lochsa, we had a complete bee experience. Jim had told us he doesn't wear yellow, and our yellow bags and chartreuse clothing did seem to hold a special attraction for the enthusiastic insects. Nearly falling over themselves, they licked our skin.

Across Idaho in Four Days: Heart of The Lochsa (Day Ten)

Idaho Day Three: Milepost 108 to The Lochsa Lodge.

The stifling heat came on the heels of the morning, but luckily we had a rushing river to cool us every 10 or so miles. Traffic was light on the gradual climb into the heart of The Lochsa. In need of water we stopped at one of the many tributary streams and collected crisp, icy blue gold. Local insects thought this a good idea as well and exploded into a cloud of bees and butterflies as we disturbed them. They gently settled on us to harvest our salt.

The sweltering heat reached its peak and we rested under the shade at the river's edge. There we meet our first fellow cyclists going the same direction. Michael and Jack, from the UK, had started from Astoria, OR on their Transamerica tour; greeting us on day 15. Leaving the shade only to dunk ourselves, we waited out the midday heat peak.

Two too many "Travel Supremes," an unfortunate behemoth of moving square footage, idling at the popular pullout shook us from the heat stupor and hurried us up the road. Soon we came upon the Lochsa Historic Ranger Station hosted by Frank Fowler, a retired smokejumper. We knew we were at the right place when he directed us to put our heads under a cool spigot. Intending to make it a short stay we wandered the grounds briefly but soon found Frank's stories of grouse, grounded telephones to fire lookouts, backcountry mule trains, and of course smokejumping too enticing.

With supplies running a bit low, temperatures subsiding, and road-shade growing, we pushed the last 40 miles to The Lochsa Lodge. A beautiful, welcoming, and warm log structure greeted us. There we feasted and met a few local scientists with whom we chatted about plants and stream sediment.

Across Idaho in Four Days: Clearwater Baptism (Day Eight)

Idaho Day One: Lewiston to Kamiah

Bird chatter and song permeated the mist of drowsiness as we awoke and prepared a quick breakfast before meandering back up the cycle path, along the levee, and into historic downtown Lewiston. We found the Blue Lantern coffee shop, which appeared to occupy an old bank building complete with heavy iron safe, tall grand ceilings, creamy marble stairs, flowing brass rails, and sun streaming through ten foot plate glass windows. Happy old building smell mingled with fresh baked cookie and dark java scents.

Coffee enjoyed, phones charged, and a grocery stop later, we pointed our wheels back over the Snake River and towards highway 12 as the day warmed. Following a cycle path paralleling the highway for several miles east, we soon needed a break from the sun and found shelter under a few small trees between the path and the river. After lunch and letting solar noon pass in the shade of black locust, the heat ride continued.

Miles later, we needed more than just shade. Just after the highway crossed the river, we laid our bikes down and climbed the short bank to the rushing cool waters. Screams, hysterical laughter, with a side of fun... Later we learned this water was so cold because it was being released from a dam upstream. Refreshed, we continued on to Orofino and Kamiah. In Kamiah near sunset we queried local people as to an acceptable place to camp nearby, and learned that we could stay in the city park.